Alpinisme

 

DEFINITION :

De « Alpes », ascension de sommets dans la chaîne des Alpes et par extension de n’importe quelles montagnes.

DESCRIPTION :

L’alpinisme consiste à pratiquer la haute montagne, gravir des sommets, parcourir les glaciers . On peut pratiquer l’alpinisme sous plusieurs formes distinctes : randonnée glaciaire, escalade rocheuse, escalade glacière, escalade mixte.

Les origines :

DIfficile à cerner et impossible de décrire l’immense livre d’histoire.Toutefois, un des premiers éléments dans l’histoire est l’ascension le 26 juin 1492 par Antoine de Ville et 8 hommes du Mont Aiguille; ils s’aident alors de cordes et d’échelles de sièges (1ere répétition en 1834 !). En 1786, le 8 aout, première ascension du Mont-Blanc par Jacques Balmat et le docteur Michel Paccard. Le but hormis le défi représenté est scientifique. Puis de 1854 à 1864, c’est « l’age d’or » de l’ alpinisme (nombreuses premières) ; les anglais y participent grandement.

Pour ce qui est de l’utilité de cette pratique, chacun peut pratiquer l’alpinisme pour diverses raisons mais il est utile de savoir que Lionel Terray pensait que tout but utilitaire devient alors perverse. On comprend aisément alors le titre de son livre « Les Conquérants de l’Inutile » !

 

MATERIEL :

Le matériel individuel :

  1. Le baudrier : Pour la randonnée glaciaire, il est préférable d’opter pour un « intégral ». Celui-ci empêche en cas de chute en crevasse le retournement du corps avec le poids du sac. Pour ce qui est de l’escalade en général, il est usuel d’avoird un cuissard. Dans les deux cas, il est très utile qu’il soit réglable en raison des différentes épaisseurs suivant la météo
  2. Les chaussures : Des chaussures d’alpinisme avec semelle « vibram »; ça peut être des cuirs ou des coques plastiques. Ces dernières offrent plus de protection pour les intempéries mais sont utilisées en géneral l’hiver. L’été, on transpire facilement dedans et elles sont plus lourdes…
  3. Les chaussons d’escalade: Utiles pour les voies rocheuses. Elles ne dipensent en rien la paire de chaussures « alpinisme » pour les approches et les retours !
  4. Les crampons : Choisir entre des crampons polyvalents ou des crampons très techniques pour l’escalade glacière très raide (goulotte). Il est important d’avoir des antibottes sous les crampons, plaques plastiques évitant la formation de sabots sous les crampons.
  5. Le piolet : Mis à part pour l’escalade glaciaire raide où deux piolets de type cascade sont nécessaires, il est conseillé d’avoir un piolet de minimum 60cm afin d’avoir de bons appuis dans toutes sortes de pentes.
  6. Le petit matériel : Une cordelette « prussik », des mousquettons à vis, sans vis, une poulie, un cordasson (7m), un bloqueur mécanique, 2 ou 3 broches. Ce matériel est très utile pour sortir quelqu’un lors d’une chute en crevasse. Si vous ne savez pas vous en servir, n’hésitez pas à faire appel à un professionnel de la montagne (un guide de haute montagne).
  7. Les vêtements : 1/ Un bonnet 2/ Des gants; il est utile d’avoir une paire de sous gants très fins. Dessus des gants type polaire et des surgants type gore-tex . 3/ Des sous-vêtements chauds (collant et haut); de nombreux produits offrent des matières très agréables à porter. 4/ Une carline (polaire fine) 5/ Une polaire chaude (Il en existe de type coupe-vent « wind-stopper »). 6/ Un pantalon et une veste de type goretex pour une protection maximal.
  8. Des lunettes de glacier avec protections latérales.
  9. Une gourde: la déshydratation entraîne la fatigue et parfois en cas de mauvais temps facilite les gelures.
  10. Des vivres de courses (barres de céréals, fruits secs…)

Le matériel collectif

  1. La corde : Pour les grandes voies, il faut une corde de rappel entre 90 et 100 mètres (suivant les voies). Il l permet alors des rappels entre 45 et 50 mètres. Le diamètre est compris entre 8,2mm et 9mm. A noter qu’il existe des cordes avec un traitement lui permettant de ne pas prendre l’eau et donc de ne pas geler. Pour les courses classiques ne necessitant pas de rappels, compter minimum 15 mètres entre chacun (progression sur glaciers).Le diamètre sera le même.
  2. Suivant la course, des dégaines, des coinceurs « stoppers », des coinceurs mécaniques « friends » ,des pitons,des broches à glaces.
  3. La trousse de premier secours (aspirine, de quoi  » emballer  » une blessure,…).

LES ENFANTS :

Il est courant de voir des enfants faire de la rando glaciaire. En ce qui concerne des courses plus techniques, alors l’effort, l’altitude, le froid peuvent ne plus leur donner envie d’évoluer dans ce mileiu. Mieux vaut y aller progressivement, commencer par la randonnée pédestre puis petit à petit…

ENCADREMENT :

La pratique de l’alpinisme exige certaines connaissances. La haute montagne est un millieu plein de dangers et seule l’expérience peut permettre d’évaluer au mieux ces dangers et de prendre les bonnes décisions. D’autre part, il est nécessaire d’avoir des connaissances techniques afin d’évoluer en sécurité et d’être capable de faire face à des problèmes (sortir son compagnon d’un crevasse…) Il est fortement recommandé d’engager un professionnel .

LE SAVOIR VIVRE :

Il est important de ne laisser aucune trace de son passage. Redescendez vos poubelles dans la vallée; il est très désagréable de trouver un sac poubelle à 4000m sur un col…

Respecter les consignes dans les refuges et attention avec vos crampons et piolets de ne blesser personne.

Attention également lors de croisements sur des arêtes plutôt étroites…

Et faites preuves de patience lors de certaines manipulations de corde…

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    В 2001 году он закончил Одесскую национальную академию связи им.Попова. На старте своей карьере работал в телекоммуникациях. Женат.

    Читайте также: Начальнику сервисного центра МВД в Одесской области подарили две квартиры и два миллиона грн

    А на своем фейсбуке, как видите, не скрывает, что он «в теме» и работает в «Телетрейд»… Интересно, что на своей странице в Фейсбуке, а именно в разделе «Информация», он разместил такой «скромный» философский текст «обо всем и ни о чем»:

    Ну, смешно, ей богу… Хотя, с другой стороны, грустно… Ведь люди читают этот бред, а многие ведутся на «профи»… Только вот потом жалуются… правда без толку, как показывает опыт многих пострадавших.

    На протяжении с 2005-го по 2006-й года Сароян курировал региональные направления «Телетрейда» по стране. Под его «крылом» было свыше 30 офисов. Здесь и столица, и мама-Одесса, Харьков, город-Лев, Черновцы и т.д… Стоит отметить, что «повезло» с руководителем «Телетрейда» не только украинским городам. Так же под раздачу Сарояна попали европейские и азиатские офисы: Италия, Португалия, Польша, и т.д. Как понимаете, бабло «лилось рекой» в карманы остервенелым аферистам.

    Кстати, «трудился» товарищ Сароян не за идею. Ему доставалось 3 процента от той самой «идеи»… Ну, вы поняли. Если озвучить простым языком, нам так не жить. Дорого. Богато. Красиво… Для понимания, Сароян получал на выходе свыше 30 тысяч баксов ежемесячно. И это не сейчас! А тогда… давным-давно, как говорится…. Без комментариев. Все подробности – здесь.

    Кстати, вот интересное видео, где Сароян озвучивает, что он глава этой компании аферистов «Телетрейд» в Украине …

    А вот и еще одно занимательное видео о том, как «Телетрейд» общается с реальными клиентами…

    Телетрейд: что известно грандиозном схематозе

    Печально известная на многих континентах мира форексная компания был зарегистрирована в оффшорах на Карибах. Еще три года назад в 2018-м бренд «Телетрейд» был лишен лицензии, а также ему запретили работать на территории Российской Федерации и в Беларуси. Уже в 2019-м МВД России в отношении компании были возбуждены уголовные дела по части 4 статьи 159 УК РФ. Речь идет о мошенничестве в особо крупных размерах. А вот, что касается руководства сей распрекрасной компании, то Владимир Чернобай с племянником Олегом Суворовым смотались за бугор, а также были объявлены в розыск. Кстати, в следующем 2020-м, уголовные дела на эту компанию завели и в Казахстане. Отметим, что там товарищи-руководители уже за решеткой, в отличии от наших…

    Подробности «Синхронной торговли» от Телетрейда

    В сентябре 2020-го в пресс-центре «Интерфакса» прошла пресс-конференция по поводу того, как «давят» масс-медиа в связи со скандальными событиями вокруг трейдерской банды «Телетрейд». Бойня, в прямом смысле этого слова, уже давно продолжается между пострадавшими клиентами и мошенниками.

    На «Телетрейд» уже заведено уйма криминальных дел и не в одной стране. Так, уголовки по мошенничеству в особо крупных размерах открыты в Российской Федерации (ч.4 ст.159 УК РФ). В Казахстане уголовные дела на компанию открыты по статье 190 УК РК.

    Во время пресс-конференции спикеры заявили о том, что на масс-медиа оказывают давление, запугивая. Делают это «защитники», остаивающие интересы «Телетрейда» с целью «закрыть рты» свободным СМИ.

    О мошеннических схематозах проекта «Синхронная торговля» рассказал подробно бизнес-эксперт, глава РК «Амиллидиус» Богдан Терзи.

    Он озвучил, что если раньше за аферы компании «Телетрейд» отвечали реальные люди-трейлеры с подачи руководства, то сейчас этот функционал выполняют роботизированные системы, которые контролируют программисты компании. Ясное дело, что все эти бото-роботы оформлены как «люди» с виртуальным баблом на счетах. Только вот проблема в том, что народ, который подключается к таким «товарищам», вполне реален и не подозревает о «зраде». По итогу люди теряют свои деньги, которые «уплывают» в карманы мошенников. Кстати, у этого «проекта» есть много названий, так как зараза распространилась по всему земному шару: «Sync trading», «Copy trading», «Teletrade invest», ну а в Украине – «Синхронная торговля».

    Невероятно, но факт: по распоряжению Сергея Сарояна бандиты похитили сотрудника «Телетрейд» и требовали 5 тысяч баксов, дабы «не похоронить в болоте»

    Вроде бы мы все живем в реалиях 21 века, в свободном современном обществе, но оказывается, не все так просто. Резонансный случай произошел с одним из сотрудников «Телетрейда». И это только один пример, который придали огласке. А сколько их на самом деле? Вопрос риторический, а теперь подробнее о скандале, который просто «взорвал» информационное пространство.

    Итак, о «похищении с мешком на голове» рассказал сам пострадавший, служащий украинского подразделения Центра биржевых технологий «Телетрейда» Олег Фурдуй, уже бывший…

    Управляющего офисом в Одессе и кризис-менеджера киевского офиса «Телетрейда» Олега Фурдуя выкрали, надели мешок на голову, вывезли в дебри и требовали 5 тысяч баксов, угрожая «похоронить в болоте». Мотивировали тем, что он «давал подсказки» клиентам по выводу бабла.

    Как видим, за помощь клиентам по актуальным вопросам, связанным с выводом своих средств, глава «Телетрейда» Сергей Сароян при помощи своей банды похитил своего сотрудника и даже отобрал выкуп за него у жены Олега.

    И, кстати, в Украине, «дочка» главной мошеннической структуры «Центра Биржевых Технологий», а именно «Телетрейд» признана мошеннической, а сотрудниками СБУ и Генеральной прокуратуры Украины были проведены обыски, в ходе которых изъята техника и ведется следствие.

    Отзывы сотрудников Сарояна и его «Телетрейд»: без комментариев

    Отзывы клиентов Сарояна и «Телетрейд»: здесь вообще аншлаг

    Не будем ничего комментировать, размещаем исключительно комментарии клиентов этой «шарашкиной конторы», позиционирующей себя как «международная компания»…

    Вот видео-версии отзывов клиентов, которых «поимела» форекс-компания во главе с Сергеем Сарояном:

    – Наталье Лячиной, клиентке Центра Биржевых Технологий, отказала компания Телетрейд в выводе ее личных средств…

    – клиент Никита Лебединский попал в ситуацию, когда ему под разными предлогами отказывали в выведении средств…

    – еще одна жертва обстоятельств – Ольга Король…

    – компания «Телетрейд» также против того, чтобы вернуть деньги, принадлежавшие клиентке Светлане Клубковой…

    – еще одна жертва мошенников – Ольга Круглякова…

    – а вот Абдулатиф Хашим Альбаргави вообще вложил в «Телетрейд» свыше 500 000 миллиона баксов, а уже через полгода потерял порядка 50 000. При попытке вывести оставшиеся средства, а именно 465 000 долларов, ему доступ к счету заблокировали. Далее деньги со счета вообще пропали. Форексная компания «Телетрейд» украла у своего клиента полмиллиона баксов за ночь. Добиться справедливости вип-клиент не смог.

    Также есть и другие отзывы клиентов «Телетрейда» на разных сайтах:

    Что здесь сказать… Крайне непонятно, почему аферист и мошенник Сергей Сароян до сих пор на свободе, если против него собрано столько компрометирующих материалов? Уже всему миру понятно, что эта «шарашкина контора», то есть «Телетрейд» – это мошенническая организация, которая сливает счета клиентов на собственные оффоры преступным путем. Всем понятно, а нам нет? Что не так с нашей правоохранительной системой? Или этот вопрос можно считать риторическим?

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