Expédition Mont Blanc, Septembre 2007 ( WE du 15-16 septembre)

 

Participants :

Eric Lutringer, Patrick Coupin, Laurent Claes, Vincent Eylenbosch et Jean-Philippe de Moreau !

Description de la course : Voie « Normale », par le Goûter et l’arrête des Bosses

1er jour : montée (5 à 6h.) au Refuge du Goûter (3817 m.) depuis le Nid d’Aigle (2372 m.) que l’on rejoint avec le Tramway du Mont-Blanc. Un sentier (enneigé en début de saison) balisé en rouge mène tout d’abord au Refuge de Tête Rousse (3167 m.) , puis c’est ensuite l’ascension de l’Aiguille du Goûter avec la traversée du Grand Couloir, l’endroit le plus meurtrier des Alpes du fait des nombreux passages. Le risque de chutes de pierre y est particulièrement important et d’autant plus aux heures chaudes de l’après-midi. Un câble, pas toujours pratique d’utilisation, est tendu en travers du couloir pour sécuriser le passage.

2ème jour : après une nuit souvent agitée à cause de l’altitude et de la sur fréquentation, départ à la frontale vers deux ou trois heures du matin vers le Dôme du Goûter (4300 m.) puis le Col du Dôme que l’on atteint au lever du jour et le Bivouac Vallot (4362 m.). Toute cette section est très « paumatoire » en cas de mauvais temps. Le Bivouac Vallot est d’ailleurs prévu uniquement pour les alpinistes en détresse. Viennent ensuite les deux Bosses, les Rochers de la Tournette, puis l’arrête sommitale, relativement effilée, ou le croisement des cordées peut parfois s’avérer délicat . 4 à 5 h. en tout .

On peut opter aussi, au départ, pour une nuit au Refuge de Tête Rousse, ce qui rallonge la course du lendemain, mais cela permet la traversée du Grand Couloir dans de bonnes conditions et une ascension du Mont-Blanc « décalée » après un petit dèj confortable au Goûter (pas avant 7 h.)

Matériel à prévoir :

LE MATERIEL INDIVIDUEL

La canicule dans la vallée n’empeche pas de se retrouver en plein hiver au sommet du Mont-Blanc avec des températures pouvant descendre jusqu’à -15 ou -20 degré. On prendra donc soin d’avoir un équipement adapté et en bon état. Il arrive cependant (rarement !) qu’on puisse se retrouver en T-shirt au sommet.

Les pieds : c’est la pièce maitresse à laquelle on apportera le plus grand soin. On évitera de partir avec des chaussures neuves.

– Chaussures (ou coques) de haute-montagne donc, d éjà rodées, chaudes et pas trop serrées.
– Chaussettes chaudes.

Les mains :

– une paire de gants chauds, éventuellement sous-gants (soie), plus une paire de rechange

Le corps : principe multicouche

– surpantalon et surveste de type Gore-Tex
– sous-vetements en textile moderne type Dunova, Capilène, etc…
– une fourrure polaire plus une chemise ou un sweat shirt
– un petit rechange

La tete : là-haut, la capuche n’est pas un luxe.
– un bonnet (les oreilles ça gèle) ou cagoule
– une paire de lunette haute protection plus éventuellement un masque.

Matériel technique :

– Crampons à attaches rapides qu’on aura pris soin de régler avant le départ.
– Antibotts
– un piolet (60 à 70 cm.) et 2 batons de skis/marche (réglable)
– un baudrier + mousqueton + casque (Grand Couloir entre Tête Rousse et le Goûter)
– une lampe frontale avec pile neuve
– un sac à dos (40 à 50l.)
– une gourde (bouteilles en plastique) ou thermos ou les deux , ou camel bag mais l’eau risque de geler dans le tuyau.
– vivres de course pour soutenir l’effort
– une couverture de survie
– éventuellement une petite « doudoune »
– 2 bâtons de marche sont vivement recommandés.

Petite pharmacie :

– Aspirine (Cardio) 1 cachet en même temps que le Diamox
– Diamox (sous prescription) pour le MAM. 1/2 cachet 2x par jour.
– Somnifère léger
– Crèmes solaire et labiale haute-protection
– Elastoplast (en prévention des ampoules)
– Compeed (pour réparer les ampoules)

Orientation :

– boussole
– carte/topo
– altimètre
– GPS
– GSM

Divers :

-assurance (Mondial et/ou UBS)

LE MATERIEL COLLECTIF

Corde : son diamètre ne doit pas etre inférieur à 8,5 mm. . Sa longueur dépend du nombre de personnes dans la cordée et de l’itinéraire emprunté, sachant que la distance de sécurité sur glacier crevassé est de 15 m. entre chaque membre de la cordée, longueur ramenée à deux ou trois mètres pour un parcours d’arete. 60 m de corde peuvent etre utile pour sécuriser la montée à (et surtout la descente de) la brèche du Maudit.

matériel de sécurité : une ou deux broches à glace, trois ou quatre mousquetons, autoblocants, sangles, etc. …

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